Wednesday, May 1, 2024

Ancestry 6 - From Istanbul: Kotis & Dominique

Hotel Wow in the affluent Yeşilköy (or Ayastefano) neighborhood of Istanbul is a walled complex of two twin high-rise towers, two modern white boxes with perfectly symmetrical facades, that might have been pretentiously modeled on the architecture of some Las Vegas or other American hotel, thus, generally devoid of character and soul. It stands in the outskirts of a shopping mall, one of those malls who sprang up, one after another, in Turkey's cities, thanks to a breathless capitalist growth and expansion. From afar, the hotel does not stand out amongst the forest of tall apartment and office blocks that define Istanbul’s skyline in the 21st century. Nevertheless, ‘Wow’ is a convenient, if not ideal, place for visiting professionals and businessmen converging from the East and the West for business deals in Turkey, but also for groups of tourists and young people with rather superficial or dubious tastes in accommodation. Sometimes even for Turkish couples who find a convenient and affordable romantic refuge not far from home. In short, Hotel Wow has been erected primarily for servicing those in transit, who want or need a low-coast accommodation for a night or two at a strategic point in the gigantic city, with easy access to its international airport.

In one of the upper floors of the hotel overlooking the "Kemal Ataturk" airport with its runways at a radius of just a mile and a half away, visible from my window at the back of the building, I spent two sleepless nights. (Nights of Insomnia or, at best, poor sleep, have become inevitable ordeals of flash business trips.) With planes taking off and landing incessantly with only a few hours pause in the small hours of the night, the noise from the night-shift in the construction of an airport extension, the humming noise from the air-conditioner, the stifling heat taking seconds to fill the room when I turned it off, the moans from the love-making couple in the room next-door, the toilet flushing from the room above… How one to sleep under such conditions? I once formed the rather erroneous notion that a possible way to deal with humming noises penetrating doors and windows, walls and ceilings in hotels, was to focus my attention to the source of noise and the noise per se and listen to it attentively, so that the disturbance is somehow transitioned from the sensory organs, the ears, and the forefront of consciousness to the depths of the unconscious, where is eventually buried. On that occasion, as in most cases, it did not work. The sunrise found me awake standing at the window and looking towards the airport. Further south, behind the runways, I could take a glimpse of the coastline of the Sea of Marmara and a playful reflection of the morning sun on its waters.

A narrow strip of residential area in the seaside neighborhoods of Ayastefano (for the Greeks) or San Stefano (for the Levantines – Genoese, Venetians, and Franks, who settled in Constantinople and its surroundings after the Fourth Crusade), was barely discernible into the distance through the blurry, polluted atmosphere above and beyond the vastness of the airport. It was at that dawn that I found myself closer than ever, in space, to the roots of my family, from my Mother's side, in Istanbul. This subtle and fleeting connection to a distant past lasted a few moments but triggered several conversations with family members on the traces that my ancestors left on this earth, from Istanbul to Greece.   

Konstantinos, Kostis, "Kotis" to his friends, his acquaintances and associates, Mother's grandfather, was born sometime in the late 19th century, and made Ayastefano, the then rather cosmopolitan and relatively affluent coastal suburb of Istanbul, his home; at the very geographical coordinates where the Venetians of Enrico Dandolo first landed and then conquered and pillaged and looted Constantinople, thus setting the course for the irrevocable demise of Byzantium. They say that Kotis’ official surname, which he left behind in Constantinople along with the piece of land he owned and most of his possessions, was Nikolaidis: clearly, a Byzantine surname. Malik Bey, a landowner, and at the same time a merchant of nuts and fruits and vegetables, he would belong to the middle to high strata of a wealthy, prosperous and economically influential class of Greeks in the heart of the Ottoman Empire until the wars of the 20th century, which, while those infidels or giaours were paying their taxes at the Porte allowed them to go about their businesses unhindered. In his manor and orchards, which at his time would have blossomed under the concrete mass of the airport, he cultivated his nuts and other seasonal produce, and then traded them in large local markets.English translation. 

He was married to Dominique, née Kountouras, whose Christian name, as well as those of her grandchildren -Stella, Dominique, Alice, and their pale, light skin color and fair hair, pointed to Frankish origins. I doubt whether Kotis himself or his wife revealed to the outside world or even harbored a Greek consciousness or Greekness, let alone considered themselves direct descendants of the lost Hellenism of the Byzantine empire from many centuries ago. I also doubt whether they had learned any of the history of Constantinople spanning the millennia before them, of the illustrious city in which they were born and lived in the heyday of their existence or, even, whether they had an elementary awareness of the historical heritage of previous generations on which their beings were founded. They spoke Greek, as well as Turkish. They were Orthodox Christians at least in name, either by conversion or compelled by tradition and local customs -no one knows. In the cauldron of Constantinople and its suburbs, various races and tribes merged over time: Turks, Armenians, Byzantine Greeks, Franks, Venetians, Genovese, and occupied various social and economic strata and posts, in a predominantly feudal and transactional society. To their only daughter Vasiliki, Kotis gave the upbringing that Greek landowners and merchants, with relatively open minds and wealth, intended for their children: a few classes of secondary school education, home instruction of French, the piano, the mandolin, and the like. Father, later in life, was joking that he had several conversations with grandmother Vasiliki over property and inheritance matters, purportedly including verbal promises for the concession of some land in Mother’s village, but conveniently discussed in the French language, so that no one present could understand them.English translation. 

The Asia Minor Catastrophe of 1922 and the exchange of populations that ensued, the heavy invisible hand of history, forced them to the New Greece, to Greek Macedonia, not long ago liberated from the Turks and Bulgarians, in rural areas in the outskirts of the Thessaloniki. The implementation of the Treaty of Lausanne was on its track. Kotis with his wife Dominique and their daughter, the beautiful Vasiliki, a 17-year-old girl at the time, said their goodbyes to Ayastefano on a sunny morning of 1924, a morning which betrayed no insurgence, no persecutions, no commotions characteristics of such momentous historical and life-transforming events. It was like any other spring morning on the coast of the sea of Marmara, its waters sparkling as with any glorious Anatolia sunrise. There was even a farewell photograph, which showed them standing, three solemn figures, surrounded by neighbors and employees, in front of their two-storey house with the light blue gray walls they would leave behind; serious and expressionless, but dignified, standing in front of the threshold of a traditional front door of a high-ceilinged ground floor, where the tall shutters of the façade hinted at the empty from produce warehouses of Kotis’ business, under the large balcony of the first floor and the attic above. Their home looked grand and rich in the photo taken to commemorate the conclusion of a life-chapter. With Kotis at the center, the highly respected and honorable family head, a true Malik Bey –imposing, with sturdy chest and shoulders, a thick mustache, piercing eyes, below combed-back, gray hair. Whatever material fortune he had accumulated and possessed throughout his life, the house, the fields and the orchards, whoever people he loved, respected and was respected by as a boss, his neighbors and friends, his associates and employees, Kotis would leave behind once and for all. The faded photograph was left as the reflection of a bitter end, the last memory of a journey that was unknowingly and unwittingly destined to change towards paths that led to the unknown, a last stern dignified stance in the face of the unexpected vicissitudes of history. On the other hand, from that macroscopic and objective and callous point of view of history, this uprooting could be classified as yet another collateral damage, an insignificant detail in the margins of the wars and historical records.

English translation. Whether, with the almost violent and disorderly population exchange and the ill-advised ethnic cleansing of the time, Kotis' flight was driven by conscience and volition and equanimity, or under the fear of reprisals and the vindictiveness and savagery that lurked in tandem with the emergence of Kemal's new post-war Turkey, nobody knows. I would have betted on the latter. After all, who would voluntarily leave a world he and generations of ancestors before him forged with blood and toil, a whole life one might say, for a disorderly escape into a shapeless future, into the void. Every farewell, definitive and final, to the living and the dead alike, to the familiar places and things of a lifetime, is a stab in the heart, a tragedy. Even for the strongest wills, it brings about emotion and tears, sadness and stiffness in the heart, and, for the weak, crying and long-lasting sorrow. The only remedy is time and the oblivion that its passage brings, and, definitively, death.

Anyway, as the Greek saying goes, they threw a “black stone” back into the land that they ploughed and from which they prospered, and Kotis with Dominique and Vasiliki, his widowed sister, Elizabeth and her two children, Leonidas and Paraskevi, left the house and the fields, gathered as much as they could from the belongings for the caique which would ferry them along the Thrace and Macedonia coastlines to Thermaikos Bay and Thessaloniki. They probably had had low expectations of the life that awaited them. Even those expectations nearly collapsed into the precipices of despair, when the chest with some pieces of gold and other valuables, all the wealth that could have been salvaged under the circumstances, fell from the hook of the crane that loaded the refugees' luggage onto the boat deck into the depths of the sea. They were left with nothing of any significant and recognizable exchange value to take to their new homeland. The conditions of their settlement in their new home country would have been substantially different, if that chest of gold had not been lost in the depths of Marmara.

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